Ark of Taste - Rare

THIS SPECIES IS AT RISK OF EXTINCTION. In the mangrove-lined salt waters in the Brazilian region of Sergipe resides a small crab with flavorful, delicate flesh. It is known as aratù, a crustacean belonging to the Grapsidae family, living either in holes in the sand or inside branches of the dense vegetation. Traditionally, fishing for aratù is a women’s activity: they would draw the crabs into specially-designed wooden traps, then return to the village in the evening to share the catch with their families. However, these days, with the arrival of electricity, the situation has changed. The women clean the crabs as soon as it is caught, and the meat is kept in freezers for people who buy it at insanely low prices only to be resold to nearby restaurants, where it is sold for more than double the original price. The women also see a reduction of aratù crab in the waters due to nearby shrimp farms and the exploitation by some local gatherers who fish and eat undersize crabs of pregnant females. Due to a fungal disease, from 2000 to 2004, the daily catch of a more common type of crab, caranguejo, has fallen from 180 to 20, causing enormous problems for the aratù crabs which are now at risk of extinction.

THIS SPECIES IS AT RISK OF EXTINCTION. Also known as Prochilodus magdalenae, bocachico is a medium-sized fish endemic to Colombia, living in the shallow water of the Atrato, Cauca, Sinú, Ranchería, Claro, and Magdalena rivers and nearby swamps. This fish can reach a length of 50 centimeters, and its name refers to its small mouth with small teeth which are located on the lips. It has silvery scales, while the fins vary in color from pink to red. In the past, bocachico was one of the main sources of income for fishermen in the Caribbean region of Colombia, while the local population used it in soups or fried it. The fish also ate decomposing organic material, thus helping to clean the water, but in the 1990s, catches started to decline, and nowadays bocachico is at risk of extinction due to two factors – overfishing in previous decades and hydroelectric works which have destroyed bocachico’s natural habitat in the process.

THIS PLANT IS RARE AND UNDER THE THREAT OF LOSS OF HABITAT. Guabiroba is a rare tree of the Atlantic Forest. It grows from Paraná to Bahia (but also, more rarely, in southern states such as Santa Catarina and Rio Grande do Sul), bearing small, round, orange-colored, aromatic fruits with acidic flavors of the pulp. The fruit is sometimes used to fatten pigs, goats, and cattle, although it is typically consumed fresh or made into jams and juice. This plant is under the threat of loss of habitat due to the disorganized growth of urban areas in the Atlantic Forest and the verticalization of cities.

THIS SPECIES IS ENDANGERED DUE TO DEFORESTATION AND EXCESSIVE HUNTING. Who knew that one of the most beautiful species of deer is also one of the most endangered in the world? Also known as Philippine spotted deer and Prince Alfred’s spotted deer, the Visayan spotted deer is named after the beige spots located on its back and sides. The deer is endemic to the Visayan Islands. It eats young shoots, grasses, leaves, and buds, and thrives on forests among cogon grassland. This deer can also be found in the myths of indigenous tribes. Nowadays, due to deforestation and hunting, it is highly endangered, and although it is legally protected, due to its life in remote locations, it is impossible to monitor any threats. In 1990, the Philippine Spotted Deer Conservation Program was founded, initiating a captive breeding program and similar conservation measures such as workshops and educational campaigns.

THIS SPECIES IS CRITICALLY ENDANGERED. Blekinge duck or Blekingeanka is a Swedish ruddy duck with white patches and a white neck, although there are also reports of sightings of pure-white Blekinge ducks. The legs and beaks are yellow-orange or orange, with black tips. There are only around 200 of these ducks, which is why they are considered to be one of the most endangered birds in the world. This hardy breed is suited for northern climates, and the ducks were traditionally brought into the stables during winter, then released when summer came. Blekinge ducks are primarily kept for their meat.

THESE PIGS ARE RARE AND THEY ARE GRADUALLY DISAPPEARING. Bazna is a Romanian pig breed named after the eponymous small municipality in the district of Sibiu. In the 19th century, Bazna breed was crossed with Mangalica, then with Berkshires, and the result is a breed of pig that we know today. The pigs have black skin and a typical white band that fully circles the trunk at shoulder-height. Their neck is short, thick, and wide, the trunk is almost round, while the back legs are well developed, although they are not especially thick. The meat has great fat that is very oily and rich in lipoprotein (also known as "good" cholesterol). It is traditionally aged in attics where it undergoes a light smoking method achieved by small openings in the chimneys of traditional houses. Although there is a number of processed products (bacon, pork rinds, lard) coming from Bazna pigs, cured pork fat is one of the most popular types due to its sweetness, texture, and porcelain-white color. Unfortunately, most producers did not pay much attention to preserving the breed’s purity, so the genetic characteristics have been lost over time due to many crosses with other pig breeds and wild boars roaming in the area. Apart from this problem, Bazna pigs can’t be kept enclosed, making them unsuitable for industrial farming, which is the reason for their gradual disappearance.

THIS SPECIES IS CRITICALLY ENDANGERED. Morava pig is black with lop ears and smooth, thin hair. Its body is long and narrow, while the shoulder blades and hams are not quite developed, with little muscle. This breed of pig is known for its resistance to disease and great fertility. They are usually raised in free range systems. The breed was popular at the beginning of the 20th century, but by the 1950s, there was a trend towards industrial pig farming, and nowadays Morava pig is critically endangered – it is estimated that there are less than 100 pigs living in the area. The meat cannot be bought commercially as this breed has a higher fat content than other breeds, and as a result, Morava pig meat is less popular with changes in consumer diets and habits. The breed also yields less meat than industrially-reared breeds, so producers prefer imported hybrids.

THIS SPECIES IS RARE AND ENDANGERED. Vištinės goose is a Lithuanian goose variety developed by cross-breeding a local breed with Embden goose, Pomeranian goose, and Eastern Prussian goose at the beginning of the 20th century. The goose is also known locally as Vištinės žąsys. The geese have an average weight of 5,2 kilograms in males and 6,2 kilograms in females. Their chest is broad, while the neck is of medium length, and the color is white with nuances of silver. Nowadays, the breed is quite rare and endangered, so the Lithuanian Animal Science Institute has implemented a conservation plan – they gathered 120 flocks of these geese for reproduction, and every year a few birds are given to breeders. Vištinės goose is mainly bred for the production of flavorful meat and quality eggs.

THIS SPECIES IS AT RISK OF EXTINCTION DUE TO EXCESSIVE GATHERING. Also known as Caracol rosado, Lobatus gigas, or the Aztec name Teccizmama, Caribbean sea queen conch is one of the largest Caribbean mollusks. Their beautiful shells measure from 20 centimeters to 35 centimeters in length. In the past, queen conch’s shell was used to make knives, blades, and musical instruments which were used in various ceremonies and rituals. Nowadays, the flesh of queen conch is the most prized, particularly on the Yucatan peninsula, while on the island of Cozumel, the meat is typically used in ceviche, but it can also be prepared with coconut milk or roasted. Due to the unique flavor of the flesh and their beautiful shells, Carribean sea queen conch has been excessively gathered, resulting in drastic reduction of the species in the area, so its consumption is nowadays strongly discouraged.

THESE HERRINGS ARE PROTECTED AND THEIR CONSUMPTION IS PROHIBITED. Alewife river herring is an American fish with a pale white, silvery body and blue-black back. Its flavor is briny and its roe is delectable. Unfortunately, in New England's coastal regions, its natural habitat, the population of this species has been on the decline due to climate change, overfishing, and degraded water quality. In recent years, there have been some actions to restore the population of these herrings, such as building fish ladders around dams. From 2016, the fish has been protected and shoudn't be consumed until the population stabilizes, and hopefully in the future it will once again be present on kitchen plates in New England households.

THIS SPECIES IS AT RISK OF EXTINCTION DUE TO LOSS OF HABITAT. Calate is a Mexican tree frog residing in mountain forests and rainforests in the regions of northeastern Hidalgo, central eastern Veracruz, and northeast Puebla. The head of these frogs is as wide as their body, which measures to 7.7 centimeters in males, and 9.5 centimeters in females. Both sexes have thick lips and a slightly elongated snout, but the females’ eye diameter is slightly larger. Calates are typically green with brown spots or vice versa. The whole body is edible, which is the reason why these frogs are locally prepared in vegetable broths, rice, and even in Mexican mole sauces. Alternatively, they can be steamed or fried. The city of Atzalan, Veracruz is one of the few places where these frogs are considered an edible species. Calates are traditionally consumed on September 29, as the locals celebrate their patron saint, St. Michael the Archangel. The hunters dissect the frogs and sell them in local markets, while local families gather calates for subsistence. Unfortunately, ever since the early 2000s, the calate population has been in decline due to loss of habitat, and if these frogs become extinct, the local community will lose some of its identity and culinary traditions.

IT IS PROHIBITED TO CATCH OR CONSUME THIS SPECIES (WITH ONE EXCEPTION). The critically endangered totoaba fish must not be caught or consumed, except for one company, Earth Ocean Farms in the Gulf of California, which has a special permit granted by Mexico, called Unidad de Manejo Ambiental. Also known as totuava, this fish is endemic to the northern and central Gulf of California in Mexico. In the past, before dams disrupted its migration, it could be found in the Colorado River delta. Nowadays, it is linked to the indigenous Cucupa, Seri, and Yaqui indigenous peoples. The name totoaba is derived from two Yaqui words: totoli, meaning bird, and buaua, meaning insatiable eater. Totoaba started to be sold in northern Mexico around 1910, and by 1970, it was massively exploited (due to habitat desctruction and overfishing) and exported to China and the United States. The fish feed on shrimps and smaller fish and live up to 19 years. The meat is highly prized due to its unique texture and flavor. During the festivals of Seri indigenous peoples, totoaba is caught, set aside on a bed of sticks, then slowly roasted over an open fire, while the juices are poured into it.